Sardinia · Italy by Taste

Fregula con Arselle: Sardinian Pasta with Clams

The clam liquor is the starting point for the cooking liquid. Fregula, also written fregola, gives the dish a toasted grain-like texture while remaining a pasta made from semolina.

Recipe at a glance

Serves4

Prep20 minutes, plus any preparation advised by the fishmonger

CookAbout 25 minutes

SkillMedium

Ingredients

  • 300 g fregula sarda
  • 1 kg live clams, prepared as advised by your fishmonger
  • 200 g cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 100 ml dry white wine
  • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little to finish
  • A small handful of parsley, chopped
  • About 700 ml hot water available; use only as needed
  • A small pinch of saffron or chilli, optional
  • Salt, after tasting the clam liquor

Before cooking

Buy live clams from a reliable fishmonger and keep them refrigerated. Follow the seller’s preparation advice. Discard broken shells and live clams that do not close when tapped; after thorough cooking, discard those that remain closed.

Sizes and cooking times of fregula vary. Keep hot water ready and use the packet as a starting point, tasting the pasta as it cooks.

Method

  1. Open the clams. Put the prepared clams in a wide pan with one garlic clove and the wine. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until they open and are cooked. Remove the opened clams; discard any that remain closed.
  2. Filter the liquid. Pass the clam liquor through a very fine sieve lined with a clean filtering cloth. Keep the filtered liquid. Remove about half the clams from their shells.
  3. Start the base. In a clean pan, warm the oil with the other garlic clove and optional chilli. Add the tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes.
  4. Cook the pasta. Add fregula and the filtered clam liquid. Add hot water in portions, stirring and keeping the pasta gently simmering. Cook until tender with a little bite, adding only the water it needs.
  5. Return the clams. Add shelled clams and the remaining clams in their shells for the final minute, so they are heated through.
  6. Finish. Taste before salting. Add parsley and a small drizzle of oil. Serve while the texture is still pleasantly brothy.

The technique that matters

Filter before adding the liquid to the pasta. Clam flavour is welcome; sand is not. Use hot water to control the cooking texture rather than replacing all the clam liquor with a strongly flavoured stock.

Common mistakes

  • Salting early: the clam liquor may already be quite salty.
  • Keeping the clams in the pan for the entire pasta cooking time: add them back near the finish.
  • Assuming all fregula cooks in the same time: taste your own brand.

Italy by Taste home adaptation, guided by published regional references. Not kitchen-tested for this edition.

Read further

Regional fregula preparation · Gambero Rosso recipe by Annalisa Barbagli · Shellfish selection and handling